The flagship brands to discover at the show – WWD
Despite the COVID-19 pandemic still ravaging the world, leading men’s show Pitti Uomo kicks off today in an IRL format, attracting the usual mix of established and promising names, with some 600 exhibitors showcasing their fall 2022 collections at the Fortezza da Basso room.
Long regarded as a great resource for high-quality menswear, Pitti Uomo has adapted to the ever-evolving category, balancing classic formal wear and more avant-garde brands, whether for their credentials. sustainable or their contemporary positioning. While some big names including Brunello Cucinelli and this edition’s special guest Ann Demeulemeester have stepped down due to the pandemic, there are plenty of names to check out.
Here, WWD selects some of the most exciting brands featured in the show’s pavilions to help buyers and attendees navigate the three main areas with ease, called Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling, and Fantastic Classic.
Updated evening dress
Offering an aesthetic rooted in the Indian origins of founder Amit Babbar, Itoh is based in New Delhi and is characterized by a sober and relaxed approach to formal wear, seen through the lens of contemporary Indian style. Each seasonal collection is designed as a small capsule showcasing the hand-woven fabrics that Babbar sources from across India, ranging from cotton-silk to wool-linen and canvas blends. For fall 2022, Babbar aims to transcend seasonality, offering a collection rich in bold colors and earthy tones with collared madras checks and pleated shirts worn under generous and crumpled overdyed suits as well as pajama sets. flowing stripes, designed as a contemporary and cool alternative to business suits.
Committed since their first collection in 2007 to delivering timeless menswear crafted from luxurious materials for gentlemen seeking daring everyday couture, German designers and life partners Hannes Roether and Nicky Wendt offer a version of the suit Inspired by work wear, like oversized corduroy options and pinstripe three-piece sets with mock-neck jackets worn over intricately knitted turtlenecks. Plaid overcoats and military-inspired blazers crafted in fustian complete the understated yet refined range.
A knit specialist for 35 years, Alpha Studio, founded in Florence by Franco Rossi, offers Made in Italy knits of timeless quality in a wide choice of fabrics and knitting techniques. For fall 2022, the brand has developed a collection of diamond knit sweaters, ribbed knit turtlenecks and mixed crewnecks made in a soft color palette of buttery white, beige and camel that exalts the natural quality of the yarns. while evoking a shabby-chic aesthetic.
Yarn waste project
The brand name says a lot about the philosophy of Parisian designer Siri Johansen. The founder of the knitwear specialist uses unsold and surplus yarns to deliver genderless knits created by hand on a manual machine in which colors are often chosen at random to reflect the offer, transforming each piece into a unique creation of its kind. With extensive experience designing knitwear at renowned fashion houses, Johansen embarked on his solo fashion project with Sebastian Maes, a knitwear maker, looking for unsold yarns that might get a second chance. . “What stands out are individually crafted pieces that embrace chance with endless possibilities,” said Johansen. For the fall collection, his second, the designer developed cardigans, blankets and crewnecks crafted in candy-colored blocks, resulting in an eye-catching offer.
Winter resistant outerwear
Filson travels to Florence for Pitti Uomo, but this time with WP Lavori in Corso as European distributor and licensee. WP Lavori in Corso, which distributes brands such as Levi’s, Beams, Engineered Garments, Nanamica and more, aims to help Filson with its sales network to expand the 124 year old brand in Europe. This season, Filson offers its signature apparel, outerwear and accessories designed for the outdoors, such as the Lined Wool Packer Coat, Denim Cruisers, Insulated Puffers and Vests, Flannel and Moleskin Shirts, and utility pants and jeans. Filson is well known for its original rugged twill case, laptop bag and large backpack that pave the way for a wide range of accessories for braving the outdoors and getting around town.
The shoe sensation Premiata, the footwear brand that has grown in recent years, is set to hit Pitti Uomo with some news: its first men’s ready-to-wear collection, featuring sportswear-inspired styles with a strong emphasis on outerwear, with inspired parkas and oversized puffers layered over tracksuits. They all feature performance materials such as nylon and water-repellent organic cotton. “I have developed a wardrobe collection for metropolitan warriors, looking for multifunctional, structured and versatile clothing,” said Vincenzo Mazza, a member of the fourth generation of the founding family who now runs the brand. The collection, made in Italy by La Rocca, will be distributed in Premiata’s main markets, including Italy, Russia and the United States.
Naviglio Milano was founded in early 2020 by fashion buyer Alessio Aramini with the idea of reusing vintage styles for a contemporary outerwear brand with a sartorial twist. Its name directly refers to the picturesque Navigli district of Milan and its canals. Aramini said he looked at the old-fashioned overcoats one would find in his father’s or grandfather’s closets, trying to update the look and using eco-friendly fabrics, many of which are recycled. The fall 2022 collection, titled “Differentiated”, nods to the notion of individuality as each coat is designed by imagining a character. Case in point: A yellow corduroy coat echoes the styles of the ’60s Mods, while a double-breasted knee-length pea coat refers to the fashion publisher’s signature style of the’ 90s.
Outerwear brand Holden continues to merge performance, fashion and sustainability in its offering, designed in Venice, California, and produced in Europe. For fall 2022, the brand is taking inspiration from art, music, culture and the outdoors and how those ideas and concepts intersect. This season, down parkas and kimono-style puffers, jackets and garments in shiny fleece, a hybrid capsule made up of down styles in Italian materials, like pants in contrasting colors, and water-repellent shoes made with the recycled Primaloft Eco insulation. Additionally, Holden produced gender-less items to complement the men’s and women’s offerings.
A family shoemaker based in Nantes, France and established in 1945 in the midst of World War II thanks to the endurance and passion of founder René Cléon, the Kleman brand as it is known today was launched in 1988 and quickly became a trusted supplier to several government departments. Proud not to follow fashion trends, the brand, now managed by Mathieu Cléon, continues to offer robust unisex models imbued with a workwear spirit, in particular moc-toe boots and leather derbies, unchanged from the models. originals from the 80s. For fall 2022, the brand is expanding its signature collection with the addition of trekking-style details and more environmentally friendly options, including models in vegetable-tanned leather and recycled materials.
In tune with young consumers’ demand for uniqueness and sustainability, Italian sneaker brand Run Of presents Pitti Uomo with its most advanced recycling project, called Runwastable, a low top sneaker made from recycled biker jackets, which customers are allowed to select and have them transformed into their new shoes. The brand, which was established in 2020 by Artistic Director and Product Designer Matteo Ciuti, offers luxury running sneakers in vintage hues that blend high-low materials and feature performance characteristics such as its patented outsole. Ciuti said his goal was to transcend the trendy sneaker trend and offer Made in Italy character shoes.
Founded in 2018 by Dieuveil Ngoubou and Lancine Koulibaly, Umòja – which means unity in Swahili – is a brand of sneakers that prides itself on being 100% vegetable and plastic-free, while promoting the textile tradition of the African countries of the Where is. The result of a two-year development process, the brand’s signature and best-selling MMEA style is a low-cut model made from cotton, linen, hemp and rubber milk from Burkina Faso, from France and Portugal from trusted and audited suppliers, making the style fully traceable and recyclable.
Los Angeles-based shoe brand Brandblack is launching its fall 2022 collection, called “Blur,” which cuts out embellishments to focus on function and fashion in minimal products. The brand highlighted key shoe styles for this season in its performance category, including the Rare Metal 2 basketball silhouette, Sansin lightweight nylon, Santa Monica basketball shoe and the Kaiju which showcases their latest technology. race. In its Moda category, Brandblack’s offerings include the sporty Luso sneaker, the Californian-inspired Bravissimo and Capistrano sneakers and their hit Saga silhouette. Much of the performance line is designed with Vibram soles and sport-centric construction, while the Moda offering includes high-quality materials like full-grain leather and suede overlays.