Oscar-winning costume designer Anthony Powell dies at 85
Anthony Powell, an inventive British costume designer who won three Oscars but is perhaps best known for the extravagant clothes he designed for Glenn Close as the fur-loving Cruella de Vil in “101 Dalmatians” and its sequel, is died April 16 in London. He was 85 years old.
The Costume Designers Guild announced his death but did not cite the cause. Fellow costumer Tom Rand said he died in a nursing home.
âThere is so much intelligence behind his work, no matter the genre or the character,â said Keith Lodwick, curator of theater and screen art at the V&A Museum in London. âYou watch a movie like ‘Evil Under the Sun’, and you see amazing details – like in a scene, Roddy McDowall’s red socks match the red eyelet on his jacket.
Mr Powell, who has brought extensive research to his work in both theater and film, won a Tony Award for the 1963 production of Richard Brinsley Sheridan’s 18th century comedy “The School for Scandal” , his first Broadway show. He has collaborated on films with Steven Spielberg and Roman Polanski. He won his Oscars for “Travels With My Aunt” (1972), directed by George Cukor; “Death on the Nile” (1978), directed by John Guillermin; and “Tess” (1979), the first of his three films with Mr. Polanski.
“Anthony, in a way, is an incredible director,” Kevin Lima, who directed the sequel “102 Dalmatians” (2000), told the Los Angeles Times, “because he has to dig deeper into these characters and visualize them. And he doesn’t just perceive what they wear, but also who they are and how to layer character based on their clothes, which we did with Cruella.
For Cruella de Vil, in two live-action films based on a 1961 animated feature, Mr. Powell designed wild sets that enhance villainy. They included a black and white silk dress with shark fin appliques; a red dress lined with ostrich feathers who seemed to swallow Mrs. Close in flames; and the dress of a couture nun with a backless dress and a wimple the size of an umbrella.
âWhen we started, Glenn told me the scariest thing,â Mr. Powell said in his Telegraph obituary. “She said to me, ‘Just do the clothes, the makeup and the hair, then I’ll look at myself in the mirror and decide how I’m going to act.’ It’s a lot of responsibility. “
Ms Close, who would also wear outfits (including turbans) that Mr Powell designed for the Broadway musical “Sunset Boulevard” – both the original production, in 1994, for which he earned a Tony nomination. , and the revival of 2017 – said on Twitter after his death, “He put me in outfits that taught me to move in and wear a costume rather than being consumed by it.”
Mr. Powell received an Oscar nomination for his work on “102 Dalmatians”.
Mr. Powell was born on June 2, 1935 in Chorlton-cum-Hardy, a suburb of Manchester, to Arthur and Alice (Woodhead) Powell. He attended schools in Manchester and Dublin before serving in the British Army as a wireless operator.
After graduating from the Central School of Arts and Crafts in London, he apprenticed with Cecil Beaton, Oscar-winning set designer and costume designer, and set designer and costume designer Oliver Messel.
While teaching at Central School, Mr. Powell began his career. Mr. Beaton introduced him to John Gielgud, who directed and starred in the 1962 London production of “The School for Scandal”.
Mr. Powell occasionally returned to the stage in London and Broadway. But most of his work was on film, starting in 1969 with Irving Lerner “The Royal Hunt of the Sun”, a historical drama about the Spanish conquistadors fighting the Incas in the 16th century.
With Franklin Schaffner’s “Papillon” (1973), a story of prisoners on Devil’s Island in French Guiana, Mr. Powell fitted Dustin Hoffman with small round glasses and found ways to distinguish his uniform appearance from that of the other prisoners, including the one played by Steve McQueen.
âI had to make it look as bad as possible,â Mr. Powell said in an interview with the British Film Institute in 2016. âHe was in a dressing room for four hours while I played with him making him feel like to have narrow shoulders. , and subtly altering the proportions to give it a completely different physical appearance.
The three films for which Mr. Powell won Oscars were period plays.
Among the many stars of the cast of “Death on the Nile,” based on a novel by Agatha Christie and set in Egypt in 1937, was Bette Davis, whom he met at her home early in the process.
âThey had a gin and tonic, or something, and she said, ‘Let’s go upstairs, you have to see what you’re working with,’â Mr. Rand said. âShe took off her clothes and stayed there in her bra and panties.
He added: “He said she had great skin.”
For âTess,â an adaptation of Thomas Hardy’s novel âTess of the Urbervilles,â Mr. Powell dressed the actors, including Nastassja Kinski, in Victorian gowns. On The Film Experience blog, Claudio Alves wrote after Mr. Powell’s death he âshowed remarkable attention to detail, artful tailoring, a keen eye for beauty in the pastoral simplicity of the English countryside.
Mr. Powell continued his association with Mr. Polanski through the films “Pirates” (1986) and “Frantic” (1988) and a production of “Amadeus” in Paris in which the director played Mozart.
In 1984, Mr. Powell designed the costumes for âIndiana Jones and the Temple of Death,â Mr. Spielberg’s prequel to âRaiders of the Lost Arkâ. He followed this up in 1989 with âIndiana Jones and the Last Crusade,â which paired Harrison Ford in the title role with Sean Connery as his father.
Deborah Nadoolman Landis, who designed the costumes for âRaiders,â said that when she first met Mr. Powell, he offered his gratitude for creating the costume model for the Jones franchise.
“He knelt down when he was introduced to me, looked up at me and said, ‘Thank you’,” said Dr Landis, president of the David C. Copley Center for Costume Design at the UCLA School of Theater, Film and Television. “How could I not want to marry this man?”
For âLast Crusade,â Mr. Powell dressed Mr. Connery in a three-piece Harris tweed suit, bow tie and hat – a look he inspired from his grandfather’s – to counterpoint Mr. Ford’s leather jacket and fedora. When filming moved from Venice to Petra, Jordan, Mr. Powell admitted he had a problem.
âSean has a thing for heat, and he sweats like a pig,â Mr. Powell said in the BFI interview. He added, âSean said, ‘I’m not going to wear this Harris tweed in Petra.’ So we had to photograph a length of Harris tweed, then screen print it on a thin cotton veil. It cost a king’s ransom!
Other credits for Mr. Powell’s film include Mr. Spielberg’s âHookâ (a retelling of the Peter Pan story in which Mr. Hoffman’s hair, as Captain Hook, was modeled on the wigs of Mr. King Charles II of Britain) and âMiss Potterâ, with Renee Zellweger as Beatrix Potter, the author of the children’s book âThe Tale of Peter Rabbitâ.
No immediate family member survives.
During the filming of “Death on the Nile” a new scene was written requiring a new costume for Mia Farrow. Mr. Powell had enough silk to make pajama pants but had nothing to make a top. As he walked around, he encountered his tailor’s mother cooking a paella and using a striped cloth covered in grease, garlic and olive oil.
âI thought there would be just enough of it to make a little vest,â Mr. Powell said in an interview with Mr. Lodwick of the V&A Museum in 2018. âSo we boiled it and boiled it. until it is somehow of the color. supposed to be, and we whistled this really cute little vest.